Many toilets are basically the same in regard to parts and installation. There are exceptions of course. Unique parts are generally found in expensive or very old fixtures. My favorite brands when installing a new toilet are Gerber, Kohler and Toto. With the need for water conservation toilets use much less water than they use to. The law today makes them use 1.6 gallons of water but some of the newest toilets are only using 1.2. Much more efficient than the fixtures of old that use 3.5 to 5 gallons of h20. To install a toilet you will need a wax ring, closet bolts, supply line, caulk. Also, don't forget that you will need to by a seat for most new units. Have you ever checked the valve that shuts off the water supply to the fixture? Can you turn it by hand? In an emergency you will want this device to work. A type of toilet that so many of my clients really like are the comfort height models which are 17" tall compared to 14". Comfort height is required for ADA applications. These are very helpful for individuals who use a wheelchair or have a little trouble going from sitting to standing easily. Also popular are one piece toilets. These units usually are more expensive but definitely have a low profile and a unique look. Toilets that you should probably call a professional to service are Case, Sloan, Crane, Briggs, Sears, Kohler lo-boys which is a one piece, generally speaking most one piece toilets cost more to service because they use parts unique to the manufacturer. For the most part if the the china is not cracked and your happy overall with the performance of your commode, it can be fixed. Call WaterWork today. Most toilet parts you need are stocked on my truck already. For your more rare parts I know right where to find them.

You should really pay attention to sump pumps. If it ever fails, chances are you'll have a lake in your basement before you figure it out. There are two common types. Submersible and torpedo. Submersible usually are in some sort of pit. Good maintenance would be to test it once per month by pouring water into the pit. Make sure that no debris is in the pit. Sand, gravel and debris can shorten a pumps life dramatically. My favorite submersible pumps are Zoeller and Hydromatic. A torpedo has no pit, its generally inserted into the storm system via a tube or pipe. These sorts of pumps are expensive and should probably be serviced by a professional. Also test it monthly by activating the switch on the unit. My preferred torpedo are Shellback located in Hazel Park Mi, and Dry Master out of Redford, MI. The best advice I can give about a torpedo pump is to own two of the same unit. Virtually nobody keeps them in stock and so when yours breaks down you can just install your spare. Then take your broken unit to the manufacturer to be rebuilt. For additional insurance, consider having a water or battery powered back up sump installed. I prefer the water back up, but have also installed many battery systems. This way there are no excuses; your basement will stay dry!

Can you imagine having to boil water first to take a bath or any of the things that we take for granted? Thank goodness for hot water tanks. So its never convenient when they break down. They are available in gas or electric. For starters my preferred brand is Lochinvar. I also like Rheem and a few others but I've been happy with the afore mentioned product. Does the valve supplying water to your tank work? Can you turn it? In an emergency this valve is quite important. To drain your tank, shut off the water supply, and the gas supply. Attach a hose to the boiler drain (looks like a spigot) on the bottom and turn the boiler drain on. When done turn the h20 back on and relight pilot (directions should be on the thermostat or in users manual). This helps reduce sediment build up which sometimes causes the heater to "pop" when it is heating up. To check that your tanks vent or draft are working correctly light a match, blow it out and hold smoke up to vent while tank is fired up. The smoke should be sucked towards the draft. If it isn't, this could be a serious problem and should be serviced asap. Use your meat thermometer to check the temperature of your water. 120 degrees is a optimum setting. On the side or top of the tank is another device called a temperature and pressure relieve valve. If the water temp rises above 210 F or the pressure exceeds 150 psi the valve will leak. Don't repair these devices, replace them. If your hot water smells like rotten eggs, you need your anode rod replaced. These rods can be difficult to remove and replace. When your pilot cannot be re-lit you may need a thermocoupler. These devices supply the gas for the pilot, they are generally copper tubes. I've heard them compared to light bulbs in terms of there reliability. Do you know about tank-less water heaters? These are the way of the future. The United States in behind the rest of the world in converting to these units, as they are common everywhere but here. I am most familiar with Bosch and Rinnai. They use energy much more efficiently. The up front is cost is more and sometimes scare people away but in the long run you will save money in gas or electric bills. And have a smaller foot print. Call WaterWork to maintain or replace your heater today.

You can rent sewer equipment I suppose. Although I cant count how many times homeowners have completely wasted there time and money. Its easier to call WaterWork, I have the best equipment and do the job quickly. But to help know how to maintain I've thought of a few facts. Tree Roots- If you cable your line yearly you should avoid having to dig up your yard. Many lines that have roots in them are made of crock (like ceramic), usually about 6" diameter, each section of crock is 3-4' long and they used rubber to seal each connection. 40 or more year old rubber though get brittle and weak, so once a tree root get a single shoot in they grow like crazy. Your sewer is like a giant compost tube so trees obviously want at it. When I ask a homeowner when did you snake this last and they don't know, this is not a good sign. Can you imagine how much tree roots can over grow in just a few years plus factor in that what you flush and drain basically fertilizes the vegetation. If you are buying a new home you should use the sewer camera just like you have a home inspection. A sewer camera allows you to see for yourself the condition of sewer and drains. Repairs and maintenance can add up so don't get stuck not knowing your pipes condition. Kitchen Drains- The second most common drain is the kitchen line. I am a big fan of garbage disposals because they guarantee I will have a job. People put all sorts of things in them. If your line is already full of grease or sludge then you add all the scraps from thanksgiving dinner. Perfect recipe for calling the plumber. Make sure to use lots of h20 when using the disposal to help wash the line. My preferred brand is Insinkerator- Badger #5 or stronger. Also note that never using your grinder is not good either, turn it on from time to time to prevent clogged screens and blades. Draino type products are also good for business, be careful when using on older piping as you could promote a leak. For especially greasy lines consider using a hydro jetter. These machines are like power sprayers on a sewer machine. They help scour the walls while removing the blockage. Vents- Ever flush your toilet and heard your bathtub or lavatory sink gurgle? That's a sign of a vent blockage. If you've ever put your finger on the top of a straw you'll notice that the liquid doesn't drain. Same concept when describing how vents work. The drain needs air to circulate and produce flow. A flushing toilet uses alot of air. If the vent is clogged it pulls air from the tub and causes a gurgle. These job sometimes require getting on the roof and snaking the vent/drain to clear. Items Not to flush- Wipes (cleaning or baby), feminine hygiene products, paper towel, foreign objects, dental floss. Use these items- Install a lint catcher on the discharge hose for your washing machine, mix vinegar and baking soda to make an all natural drain cleaner, hair can can cause major blockages, use a removable screen/strainer over your bathtub and sinks to help prevent. Add water to floor drains and any other drain you don't use on a regular basis to prevent water evaporation leading to foul odors. If your interested in back up prevention and saving money ask about WaterWorks preventative maintenance programs.

Many of yesterdays faucet brands were built to last. Some plumbing techs will push for you to replace because its easier for them. The ability to service older valves and faucets takes a higher level of skill and better stocked trucks. If you like your fixture inquire whether it can be rebuilt first. You can save money and still have a faucet that will last for years to come. Of course sometimes only a new unit will do. I do carry some faucets as stock but I do recommend that the client pick up their own if a look is desired. For a good, lasting, easy to fix faucet I recommend Delta and Moen. Any plumber who is even moderately stocked will have repair parts to these brands. For three handle tub and shower valves I install Gerber. For a unique faucet check out Grohe, Hanza, Kohler plus many more, these are just examples. Keep in mind though that unique faucets often times have parts that might not be stocked normally. Possibly more time consuming and expensive to repair. You should consider hiring a professional when dealing with Grohe, Hans Grohe, Hanza, Danze, Kohler Niedecken, Speakman, Newport Brass, Price Phister, Sayco. Just to name a few. Did you know that an average faucet drip can waste 10 to 17 gallon of water per day? Call WaterWork to solve these issues.

Before you spend potentially big money waterproofing your home here are some simple things you can try to help. Check your gutter downspouts if they are dumping water on your foundation install extensions to move the water away from your basement wall. Build the grade up around your house so that water does not pool at your foundation. If your leak is from a wall where a driveway is, try installing a bead of tar at the seam of the house and driveway. Make sure to sprinkle dry concrete on the tar to help strengthen the pliable tar. From small to big jobs call for an estimate today.